Summer Flowering Bulbs

Create a summer mood that's fun and exotic. In summertime, we like to feel exotic - especially in our own backyard. This summer to add a tropical tone to your surroundings, try decorating your deck, doorway or yard with containers planted with outlandish greens and flowers. A few tubs or containers of giant leafy plants and vivid tropical colors can easily transform a scene from "ho-hum" to "wow!"

Summer-flowering bulbs originate from sub-tropical regions such as South Africa and South America. They like warm temperatures and humid conditions, and usually are not winter hardy as they rot in cold rain. In general summer bulbs fall into the category of tender bulbs as many do not perennialize in zones that experience frost in winter.

Summer bulbs include true bulbs, corms, tubers, tuberous roots, rhizomes, and enlarged hypocotyls. Each a type of specialized food storage organ that is morphologically different but their basic function is to serve as an organ for survival of the species. They flower at various times depending on the hardiness zone and growing conditions Traditional summer-flowering bulbs - along with selected semi-hardy and tender bulbs greatly enhance gardens and landscapes. Should they not be suitable for your garden situation, they may be successfully used as container plants.

What Summer Bulbs Need to Grow
Summer-flowering bulbs need sufficient water and humid conditions. Plant these bulbs when the soil temperature is approximately 13°C. If planted too soon the bulbs will not begin active growth and can easily rot. Place them close to the surface (3-5cm or 1-2 inches deep) where the soil is warmest. Most (though not all) summer flowering bulbs, such as dahlias and begonias, should be lifted before the first frost in late September or early October. Our milder winters allow many bulbs to perennialize - leave them in the ground, be sure the ground is well drained and cover to protect them from frost.

The Exotics: Plants with Tropical Perspective
Any of the following plants will thrive in containers. All may be started from bulbs, or many may be purchased as bedding or container plants at garden centers.
All those Lilies: Elegant cultured lilies, Asiatic, trumpet, oriental and tiger perform to their utmost in containers, the larger the better. For a container 12-inches wide, plant three lilies, positioning each about four-inches below the soil surface. Place in full sun or partial shade.
Other plants with lily in their name but not true lilies such as calla lilies, daylilies and Lilies of the Nile are excellent container plants. Agapanthus (Lily of the Nile) is a brilliant blue flowering. The flowers cluster atop three-foot stems, towering above a whorl of bright green blade-like leaves. Dwarf and variegated varieties have become available in recent years. They are best in a large container (one to three bulbs per container) placed in full sun to partial shade. Peak bloom time is mid-summer to early fall. In colder areas, protect the container over winter, the agapanthus will return to bloom even more next year.
Eucomis bicolor, the Pineapple Lily with its fabulous pineapple look-a-like tuft atop a 15-inch spire of tiny greenish-white flowers and base of broad green strappy leaves is a tropical plant extraordinaire. For a striking effect, plant an odd number of bulbs in a large pot or barrel. Place in full sun or light shade. They bloom in July and August and retain an interesting appearance after flowering.
For non-stop flowers from July till frost, try canna lilies. Their distinctive large tropical foliage may be red, brown, green or striped and the gigantic flowers are hot reds, oranges, pinks or yellows. Cannas grow wild along country roads throughout the Mediterranean region and the southern hemisphere - but find life in a pot enjoyable too! To plant the canna root, lay it on its side, bury one-inch deep in the soil. Cannas love full sun and hot weather.

To plant in containers, follow these simple steps:

The best soil for container plantings is commercial potting mix. This soil is richer, cleaner, more insect and disease free and lighter than soil found in the ground.

Plants cannot survive in water-logged soil, they must have good drainageto keep their roots healthy. Be sure all containers have drainage holes.

Choose containers deep enough for the plants (check planting instructions on the plant label). Deep pots help prevent too frequent drying out in hot weather.

Fill the pot one-quarter to one-third deep with soil, position plants at the proper depth (read planting instructions that come with the plants). Fill in additional soil up to one-inch below the pot top. This extra space at the top provides room for mulch if needed, plus allows room for watering.

You can display the planted container as is, or sink it into another more decorative outer container. When double pottingbe sure that water does not collect at the base and drown the inner pot.

Good containers to try include terra cotta pots, plastic planters, molded fiberglass planters, wooden half-barrels, wicker baskets, ceramic pots, old wooden wagons, wheelbarrows, even tires.

Group pots together for greater visual effect, and to minimize watering labor.

Over Wintering Tips
For storage, temperatures and moisture conditions vary for each bulb species. Whenever bulbs are winter hardy, it is advisable to keep the bulbs in the garden and cover them well before the winter starts. In many cases the plant will bloom better the next year, e.g. Agapanthus, Amaryllis belladonna, Crinum, Canna and Lily. When grown in containers, it is usually best to keep the bulbs in the pot and place in a frost free, dry storage location or if they are hardy, bury the pot in well drained soil and cover with a mulch. If a pot of bulbs is exposed to freezing temperatures most bulbs will perish.

Top Candidates for Container Planting

Agapanthus - Two overwintering options are possible, depending on the variety.
Borderline hardy in Zone 8.
- Leave fleshy rhizomes in container with slightly moist planting medium and place at 2-13°C.
- Place container in cool 2-13°C greenhouse and water sparingly during the winter. Return to growing area in spring.
Alstroemeria - hardy in ground
Amaryllis belladonna - Store bulbs in container at 13-21°C.
Anemone coronaria (St. Brigid and De Caen) - Store tubers dry at 10-13°C. It is advisable to leave them in the ground and cover them up.
Anemone blanda - windflower, same as coronaria.
Begonia (Tuberous Hybrids) - Harvest the corms in fall, and store in dry peat at 2-5°C. Begonia camelia, rose form, picotee, pendula, carnation type, non-stop and small flowered begonia - continuous blooming varieties
Canna - dwarf varieties Harvest rhizomes in fall, and store in dry peat or vermiculite at 5-10°C or leave them in the ground and cover them up.
Convallaria Lily-of-the-Valley leave in ground
Crinum powelli - Store bulbs in slightly moist sand at 2-7°C. If grown indoors in a container, place in a bright, cool (13°C) night temperature room.
Crocosmia (syn. Montbretia) - Store corms in peat or vermiculite at 2- 5°C, or leave them in the ground and cover them.
Dahlia - Pompon, mignon, collarette, border, humpty-dumpty, gallery, bronzeleaf Harvest tuberous roots in fall, keep away from drafts, and store in vermiculite or dry sand at 2-7°C.
Eucomis - Store bulbs dry at 13-20°C. Hardy in ground Zone 8.
Freesia - Store corms or containers dry at 25-30°C.
Galtonia - Store bulbs dry in vermiculite at 17-23°C, or leave in the ground.
Gladiolus - Harvest corms after foliage dies. Store dry in mesh bags 5-13 °C.
Gladiolus Callianthus (syn. Acidanthera bicolor) - Harvest corms in the fall, dry, clean carefully, and store at 13-20°C.
Gloxinia Haemanthus - Bring containers indoors and either store dry or continue growing at 13-18°C.
Hymenocallis (also called Ismene) (Peruvian Daffodil) - Place container-grown plants indoors and grow them at 13-18°C. To store unplanted bulbs, harvest them carefully leaving soil around the roots, and store dry at 16-21°C.
Incarvillea delavayi Garden gloxinia - hardy in the ground.
Ixia - Store corms dry at 20-25°C.
Liatris - Store corms in moist peat at 2°C.
Lilium - Better to leave in the ground, but can be stored in moist peat at 2°C. Asiatic, Oriental, trumpet, tiger, Gloriosa
Nerine - Store bulbs dry or in container with ventilation at 2°C.
Iris germanica Bearded iris - very hardy
Iris = other bulbs such as Dutch, English are hardy in the ground.
Ornithogalum Star of Bethlehem, pregnant onion and other tender species - Store bulbs dry at 21-27°C.
Oxalis (Tender Species) - Store rhizomes or bulbs in peat or vermiculite at 2-5°C.
Ranunculus - Store tuberous roots dry at 10-13°C. Rot easily.
Roscoea Garden orchid - hardy.
Schizostylis - (Kaffir lily) If stored place rhizomes in moist peat at 45°F (7°C). However, it is preferable to let them perennialize.
Sparaxis - (Harlequin Flower) Store corms dry at 68-77°F (20-25°C).
Sprekelia - (Aztec Lily) Store bulbs dry in peat or vermiculite at 5-13°C.
Tigridia - (Mexican Shell Flower) Store bulbs in peat or vermiculite at 2-5°C.
Veltheimia - S> African. Grow year round and avoid storing bulbs. If stored, keep dry at 25°C. When bulbs are in containers, take indoors for winter at 10-16°C. Blooms in February.
Zantedeschia (Calla Lilies) - Store rhizomes or tubers dry at 10- 16°C. Take care not to injure the storage organs.
Zephyranthes - (Fairy lily) Store bulbs in peat or vermiculite at 10-16°C.

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